Vermeil v. Gold Plated, Know the Difference

Despite what people think, gold plated is not gold filled and gold filled is not vermeil gold. Each of these is separate from the other. If you are worried about the quality or are allergic to certain metals (mind you it is still possible to have sensitivity to gold and silver) stick to solid metals and avoid plated jewelry.

Gold Filled

The name makes it sound like the manufacturer injects gold into the piece when actually it’s pretty much the opposite. A layer of gold is bound to the metal underneath through heat and pressure. The amount of gold used for the piece has to equal at least 5% of the piece’s total weight.

Pros:

• More durable than plated pieces

• The gold layer protects the metal underneath from the elements and helps it keep its color.

• The piece holds more value than gold plated.

• Layering quality starts at 10k but can go up to 24k

• Sold at a better price compared to solid gold

• Lasts anywhere from 10-30 years depending on care.

Cons:

• Any metal can be used underneath (brass, copper, silver etc.) so you won’t know what was used unless you’re told or it is marked, which it should be.

• If the piece is repaired by soldering you might see some discoloration unless a laser solder was used or they plate over it.

Vermeil Gold

Simply put vermeil gold is a layer of gold 5x heavier than plating over sterling silver. It’s the silver that sets it apart from other layering methods. If we are going to get technical about it, plated jewelry is covered by 0.5 microns of gold while vermeil is covered by 2.5 microns (5x as much).

Pros:

• The amount of gold used doesn’t vary by weight.

• You have another fine metal (sterling) underneath.

• Doesn’t fade as fast as gold plating.

• Quality starts with 10k gold and can go up to 24k

Cons:

• Depending on the weight the gold layer may not be as thick as gold filled (it probably won’t be in all honesty)

• The higher the gold quality the more care the piece needs.

• Price is similar to Gold Filled

Which one would I choose?

If I was going for longevity I would choose gold filled. If you avoid swimming, cleaning or showering in your jewelry (especially watches I mean come on) it means your pieces don’t interact daily with harsh or corrosive chemicals. You could have a solid gold ring but if you’re cleaning with bleach and ammonia or acidic substances you WILL harm the metal. Some chemicals are corrosive and gold it not indestructible, no matter how "real" your piece is.

Vermeil gold is ideal for fine jewelry without paying a hefty price. You still pay, don’t get me wrong but in the end you are left with a piece that has the chance of holding a good bit of value even when the layering wears off. It’s sterling silver underneath after all.

That’s really what it comes down to. A personal choice between owning a piece using higher end metals or a mix of high end and common metals but with better longevity.

Image shows a layer of gold I managed to peel off the gold filled bracelet. If it were plated it would only look discolored.

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